Ami and Amiri: From the Sacré Coeur to the Jardin des Plantes
One vital reason Paris remains the world’s greatest fashion capital: the city is so photogenic. Beautifully underlined by a spectacular AmiAmiri
Ami
Alexandre Mattiussi’s latest show for his burgeoning brand Ami was a hit from the opening look. Audrey Tautou opening in a cool trench before the Sacré Coeur of Montmartre, before an audience of Naomi Campbell and Carla Bruni.
Instant applause both from the guests and a couple of thousand fans at the bottom of the steps up to the famed church. The mere fact the city and local church agreed to let Ami stage its show in front of the legendary basilica, another indication of how much this contemporary Parisian brand Ami means in France.
Cheers rippling through the audience as the likes of Liya KebedeCara Delevingne
“A schoolgirl in Montmartre. French girls and French boys; romanticism, Paris, Paris, Paris!” enthused Alexandre, post show, before the giant panoramic view.
“My first apartment when I came to Paris was in Montmartre. Now I live in an apartment with a view of the Sacré Coeur. I see it every time when I go to bed. So, it’s my Coeur Sacré. And that’s the name of the collection,” beamed the bearded designer.
Presenting a real mix of chic citizens, including racy ladies, who pair crisp green wool blazers with thigh-high boots; seduce in lipstick-red leather jackets, like “une pute de Pigalle
All the way to the little black dress, in a cute reference to Edith Piaf. Before a privately educated Parisienne got raunchy in skinny sailor’s sweater, micro mini and thigh-highs, as she parties in this funky district.
Mattiussi will always love a big enveloping coat, this season in Tati
For guys, faded jeans and blazers, each finished with his new heart-shaped Ami-logo golden buttons. All blended together with Argyles, stripes and touristy shirts. Nothing too revolutionary but a hyper focused collection that said, well, Paris, Paris, Paris.
Another indication of how hot this brand Ami boasts 15 stores in Japan. Pre-pandemic there were just three.
Legend has it the Romans beheaded Saint Denis, the patron saint of Paris, at this site. On Thursday, as the sun set, it felt like the city had just consecrated Mattiussi as its latest fashion saint.
Amiri: Icy blue in the Jardin des Plantes
Mike Amiri
During the pandemic, Mike produced a series of swish videos and shows – shot in iconic mid-century modern villas and in historic movie locations in LA. His sense of savvy showmanship was evident again in Paris, with a giant pristine logo runway, the third the size of a grid iron, built as a platform overlooking the historic Jardin des Plantes. While his demi-gothic logo reached twice as high as any of the lanky models.
What worked best was his great ice, blue, ecru and faded-cement palette, seen in all sorts of cool sportswear, beachwear and loungewear.
Amiri isn’t Giorgio Armaniskorts; combined with kilts; or finished like an intarsia ice field, they all looked great.
“He’s been really growing as a designer. It takes time to really make great fashion, but Mike is getting there,” commented Renzo RossoOnly the Brave
All finished with white logo sneakers and accompanied by a soothing soundtrack of Shade and Kool & The Gang, this was an important victory for Mike Amiri. He had earned and won Paris’ respect. Not something handed out easily in fashion.
