Etro on its quest for youth, Diesel shows in the rain
Cassidy STEPHENS
Milan could not make up its mind between hot weather and pouring rain on Wednesday, dampening the Fashion Week devoted to the women’s ready-to-wear collections for Spring-Summer 2024. Everywhere, designers sought to distinguish themselves, competing creatively in an explosion of styles, from EtroDiesel
Etro continues on its quest for youth led by Marco De Vincenzo, who managed to condense into a single collection the brand’s chic bohemian spirit, the richness of its fabrics, as well as a touch of exoticism that has always characterized the label. All the while refreshing the brand through new volumes, lengths and a kaleidoscope of colors and patterns.
For Spring/Summer 2024, the creative director took the shirt, a Milanese classic, and reworked its proportions and cuts. Printed cotton maxi-dresses with slits turned into light coats, transforming into an almost couture silhouette. A yellow and mauve striped shirt was paired with a long sleeveless dress in pink cotton with grey polka dots. A floral-print shirt-dress unbuttoned at the bottom revealed a black leather miniskirt. While dresses and skirts in poplin with a micro tie print flared out at mid-height, as did the pants with unusually wide legs.
“By altering reality a little, we get new clothes that are easy to wear every day. It proves that eccentricity doesn’t have to mean complexity,” said the designer backstage. He had the good idea of using devoured velvet jersey in warm, dapper shades, which resembles brocade without the stiffness, in which he made tight-fitting tops and pants.
Elsewhere, printed stretch tulle draped over an embroidered bodysuit conveyed the idea of richness, while terrycloth upholstery fabric was used to create a majestic suit and royal cape. Skin-tight tops were decorated with a large octopus and other paisley motifs, like tattoos. Simple cardigans and sweaters with tiny stones, light floating threads and embroidery were transformed into luxurious tops.
On the eve of the show, Marco de VincenzoAcqua Bagnami by the Palermo band Santamarea, with its African percussion, Arabic string instruments and electric guitar, captured the idea of this mix of sensations expressed through the clothes. A few days earlier, the designer had also lifted the veil on his work and behind the scenes of the house through a documentary, Radical Etro, shot last February by Beniamino Barrese.
The house has been particularly active in recent months. It has just enlisted Chaeyoung, one of the members of the K-pop group Twice, as its first ambassador in Japan, a market where it wants to strengthen its position, and on September 20 it is inaugurating a pop-up store at the Isetan
Diesel brought the day to a close with a rock concert-style show, featuring a long, red-carpeted, elevated catwalk where models walked in front of 7,000 people. The jeans brand of the OTB fashion group, led by Belgian designer Glenn Martens
This time, it did things even bigger, inviting everyone to the grounds of the former Scalo Farini railway depot. It’s a pity the heavens opened just as the show was about to start, spoiling the party. Like a tribe from another world, Diesel’s mutant warriors and space heroines braved the rain with courage, racing down the runway as if nothing had happened.
Despite a gigantic 26 x 16-meter screen broadcasting the images in real time, it was difficult to make out the looks on the catwalk. Fortunately, this rave party was designed to last, with free film screenings scheduled throughout the weekend.
For next summer, Glenn Martens has continued to experiment with materials, with devoured effects, shredded ensembles and extreme fading. Worn and bleached leathers seemed soiled by ash. Drawings were printed on net dresses, denim sweaters and pants seemed to disappear, as if eaten away and dissolved by wear, while vests and dresses were torn and frayed. Dyes gave the garments a crumpled effect. The effects are endless, making every piece interesting.
