Peter Do pulls off rare fashion trifecta for Spring 2024
There is a lot of pressure for designers to create seasonal collections. Even more so for designers who have juggled helming a big European house and a namesake brand that can result in up to ten collections a year.
Given the title of artistic director, these jobs come with an army in the design room. Still, it’s a lot to juggle, and historically, several namesake designers reached burnout, often in explosive public ways, such as John GallianoDior
Buzzy designer Peter Do tackled three different collections for Spring 2024, from his highly anticipated bow at Helmut LangParis Fashion WeekBanana RepublicFashionNetwork.com
Fashion critic Cathy Horyn wrote in her review for The Cut that Do “didn’t quite hit the mark,” and also recalled the context that made Helmut Lang achieve genius status; he proposed luxed-up basics in precision cuts in contrast to the high glam sexiness of VersaceThierry Mugler
Horyn suggested that Do will have to aim higher as Lang’s utilitarian codes are as ubiquitous as Uniqlo
Like many critics, Horyn was singing a different tune by the time Do arrived in Paris with his runway debut in the City of Lights for his namesake, which featured Banana Republic pieces. Here, the seasoned critic wrote, “Peter Do tucked in about ten looks he created for the brand in his show on Tuesday. It was a seamless move, with Do’s signature kilt (in black cotton), a pair of trousers, and some cool henley and tank tops. His collection sharply reflected his urbane tailoring and, at the same time, expanded it with well-cut, two-tone black pants, a sleeveless black-leather jacket wrapped over a black skirt, and a clever, minimalist white dress with an oval-shaped front in sheer red. He was right to bring his act to Paris.”
Robert Burke Associates founder and CEO Robert Burke— who describes Do’s work as “tailored with some Asian and Japanese influence, akin to Calvin Klein
“God help the designer that comes in after the namesake. Even though there have been several in this case, [names such as Hood by AirShayne Oliver
The fashion executive also pointed out that the only thing that closely resembled Do’s Paris debut with the Banana Republic sampling was Isaac MizrahiTarget
Chief development officer, Tomorrow, and president of Tomorrow Projects, Julie Gilhart also sees Do—a Phoebe PhiloCeline2014 LVMH2020 LVMH Prize for Young Designer—having enormous potential. The fashion and retail veteran spoke to FashionNetwork.com over email.
“There was a large amount of hype around Peter’s debut for Helmut Lang, and honestly, I don’t think ‘we’ managed our expectations. He did a show and then a showroom. The showroom had great clothes priced appropriately in a very on-trend style. He did an excellent job for a first collection,” she proffered, noting Do’s business acumen is sharp.
“He was very smart in developing his business with high-end specialty stores versus big store retailers globally and cultivated relationships with stores with close connections to all their customers. Peter was able to develop his brand based on his creative vision, take in all the customer information he received, and develop from his initial store partners. Also, his collections have a sense of being on-trend but never trendy, so the appeal is wide,” she continued.
According to Gilhart, the designer accepted the Banana Republic collaboration before the Helmut Lang gig was announced in May 2023. Thus, he may have had a longer runway to prepare his Lang debut. She proposes time will correct the lackluster reaction to the latter.
“He already has a refined vision here for his namesake collection. Helmut Lang is a ‘re-start-up.’ It needs time to develop,” she added.
For Meena Anvary, head of marketing at Banana Republic, Do was a natural partner to interpret the iconic Gap
“We are looking to connect with our customers in an authentic way, meeting them where they are. Culture and self-expression are redefined today. It’s not about brands dictating how people should dress; it’s about inspiring them to make it their own. Peter Do is an ideal partner to help us offer a collection of premium pieces rooted in unexpected tailoring and utility designs,” she told FashionNetwork.com over email.
The retailer has collaborated with various designers, including Charles Harbison, Greg Lauren, the late L’Wren Scott, Trina Turk Timo WeilandRoland MouretMillyMad Men costume designer Janie Bryant.
“Since our relaunch, we have been intentional about the approach to being part of the fashion conversation, including finding the right partners who share our values. With Peter Do, a brand that grew organically on social and is so connected to his audience, it was a natural fit from the beginning. The intersection of our heritage and Peter’s unique design sensibility creates a fresh look for our customers. This is our take on effortless dressing for today’s customers,” she continued.
So far, the response has encouraged a broad audience.
“The Banana Republic partnership was taking Peter Do sensibility and making it approachable and aspiration from a silhouette and design standpoint; it’s sophisticated designer wear at a great price,” said Burke.
Why one brand that Do put his stamp on for Spring 2024 seemed to hit the mark while the other stalled is anyone’s guess. Timing, budgets (undoubtedly significant in the Banana Republic’s case), and how much freedom the brand gives the designer are all factors. Do has been pegged as the great hope to get Lang back on track. Fortunately, he is probably already hard at work on the next collection.
